General4 min read
Geometry and Symmetry
I woke early and left my hotel in Karol Bagh, heading to Dhaula Kuan. It was peak Kanwar Yatra time and sections of the road had been cordoned off for the pilgrims, Yet, they spilled on to the road of
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kvijaykumar
Author
Published
September 20, 2025
I woke early and left my hotel in Karol Bagh, heading to Dhaula Kuan. It was peak Kanwar Yatra time and sections of the road had been cordoned off for the pilgrims, Yet, they spilled on to the road often. I took a taxi to get me to the bus station, afraid I would miss the bus. He overcharged me, and it turns out the bus was empty and waited a long time after it was supposed to leave. Furthermore, the bus charged me an AC fare although the AC was not working. The bus conductor’s argument – God has created such a wonderful AC, why do you need the bus AC? My riposte – then I will pay God the difference in fare did not cut much ice.
But that was far from the biggest problem. The bus which had I had boarded with the intent of getting off at Bandikui went via Mandawar instead, and transferred me to a bus that dropped me off at Mehndipur bypass with the advice that there are lots of buses going to Bandikui from there. In fact, there were none. There were several going to Jaipur, some which stopped at Sikandra. Eventually, I settled for an e-Auto to take me the remaining 20-odd km to Abhaneri. Sharing the ride with me was a couple from Kanpur who had come to the Balaji Mandir and were going back to catch a train from Bandikui to Kanpur.
We go through fields of Barley trundling through some narrow village roads. We chat about farm productivity, fertility, and water tables. Ram Singh is full of information about such things.
I get off at Abhaneri. It is well past noon by this time. The complex has a small garden with shady trees planted in it. There are several families who have taken the opportunity to lay out a picnic spread. The elders settle down with a sigh while the kids run around and climb the trees, making for several photo opportunities.
The entrance to the complex feels cool, thanks to the pedestal fan that the staff has set up next to their table.
Chand Baori was built by King Chanda of the Nikumbha Dynasty in 9th century AD. It has 3,500 perfectly symmetrical, narrow steps which takes the form of a double flight of steps on three sides of the well, leading down to the surface of the water below. The entrance on the north via a six-storeyed pavilion with pillared galleries, projecting porches and decorated eaves and corbels.
At the lower-most level, there are two projected offsets to house a niche in each of them. These two niches serve as shrines, the right one houses the deity Ganesha while the left one has an image of Mahishasuramardini.
The upper-most level is a later day addition by Chauhan rulers.
A pillared gallery has been built on the other three sides (West, South, and East) and is under maintenance. A number of exquisitely carved idols lay strewn around in these galleries. These idols range from six to eighteen inches in height and most of them are of deities from Shaivite traditions – such as Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha and their attendants.
Across the street, on the west, is the Harsiddhi Mata temple or the Harshad Mata temple, of the same vintage as the step-well. It is in an advanced state of disrepair, despite multiple conservation efforts, leaving blocks of stones jumbled together obviously not in the right place. Despite this, it is a temple of great beauty and grandeur. The carvings on the plinth are of particular delight.
It is time to leave now, and I catch a ride to Bandikui train station. The carriage is packed (I have to board the general compartment, not having made prior bookings) and I spend the first hour or so standing before eventually managing a seat on the luggage rack. It is late evening by the time I get off at Delhi Cantt station and discover that the Delhi Cantt metro is a long way away from the railway station of the same name. An auto-ride and a cold mosambi squash later I am on the metro, back to my hotel for a warm bath and bed.
Note to self: Next time, plan ahead and take the train.
But that was far from the biggest problem. The bus which had I had boarded with the intent of getting off at Bandikui went via Mandawar instead, and transferred me to a bus that dropped me off at Mehndipur bypass with the advice that there are lots of buses going to Bandikui from there. In fact, there were none. There were several going to Jaipur, some which stopped at Sikandra. Eventually, I settled for an e-Auto to take me the remaining 20-odd km to Abhaneri. Sharing the ride with me was a couple from Kanpur who had come to the Balaji Mandir and were going back to catch a train from Bandikui to Kanpur.
We go through fields of Barley trundling through some narrow village roads. We chat about farm productivity, fertility, and water tables. Ram Singh is full of information about such things.
I get off at Abhaneri. It is well past noon by this time. The complex has a small garden with shady trees planted in it. There are several families who have taken the opportunity to lay out a picnic spread. The elders settle down with a sigh while the kids run around and climb the trees, making for several photo opportunities.
The entrance to the complex feels cool, thanks to the pedestal fan that the staff has set up next to their table.
Chand Baori was built by King Chanda of the Nikumbha Dynasty in 9th century AD. It has 3,500 perfectly symmetrical, narrow steps which takes the form of a double flight of steps on three sides of the well, leading down to the surface of the water below. The entrance on the north via a six-storeyed pavilion with pillared galleries, projecting porches and decorated eaves and corbels.
At the lower-most level, there are two projected offsets to house a niche in each of them. These two niches serve as shrines, the right one houses the deity Ganesha while the left one has an image of Mahishasuramardini.
The upper-most level is a later day addition by Chauhan rulers.
A pillared gallery has been built on the other three sides (West, South, and East) and is under maintenance. A number of exquisitely carved idols lay strewn around in these galleries. These idols range from six to eighteen inches in height and most of them are of deities from Shaivite traditions – such as Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha and their attendants.
Across the street, on the west, is the Harsiddhi Mata temple or the Harshad Mata temple, of the same vintage as the step-well. It is in an advanced state of disrepair, despite multiple conservation efforts, leaving blocks of stones jumbled together obviously not in the right place. Despite this, it is a temple of great beauty and grandeur. The carvings on the plinth are of particular delight.
It is time to leave now, and I catch a ride to Bandikui train station. The carriage is packed (I have to board the general compartment, not having made prior bookings) and I spend the first hour or so standing before eventually managing a seat on the luggage rack. It is late evening by the time I get off at Delhi Cantt station and discover that the Delhi Cantt metro is a long way away from the railway station of the same name. An auto-ride and a cold mosambi squash later I am on the metro, back to my hotel for a warm bath and bed.
Note to self: Next time, plan ahead and take the train.